Essential SM Equipment

ESSENTIAL SM EQUIPMENT

What basic SM equipment should one have to start out on the journey to build a playroom?

I recommend a few pieces I deem absolutely necessary and why.

Rope: Nylon is the best because it is soft, very flexible and strong - also comes in colors. Avoid sisal and poly rope because it is stiff and scratchy and can cause rope burns, unless you and your play partner want that. Get at least 100' of 3/8"- 1/2" diameter. You should cut several pieces into 3', 6', 10-12' lengths. If you want to tie body harnesses, you'll need 25', 50' and even 100' lengths.

Chain: Although it's a bit more expensive, half-twist chain is best because it lies flat against the body, minimizing discomfort or injury. You should buy at least a couple of 3' and 6' pieces.

Restraints: The most basic are leather cuffs. Although more expensive, I recommend padded ones that minimize compression injury. Two pairs minimum. One set should be larger to be used on ankles. Some have locking ability, others have standard buckles for fastening. I warn that metal handcuffs and shackles, although they look great and feel very secure, are a bad choice for any suspension or pull on wrists and ankles because they more easily can cut off blood supply or damage nerves, and they're very expensive. However, if you need to keep a prisoner...

Locks: Buy quality padlocks that have a smooth key mechanism and strength. Keyed alike sets are a great idea, especially if you need to quickly release a bottom and fumble for keys. You'll need at least a set of 4. I recommend two sets of different sizes.

Other fasteners: Steel clips (carabiners) that have a twist closure on one side are choice for linking chains. Don't use aluminum ones because they aren't strong enough to support a body. I don't recommend double snap clips because they're often made of cheap metal that can break easily, although stainless steel ones are available.

Adjustable Spreading bar: This instrument has advantages of keeping limbs apart at a distance you choose. The restrained bottom can't pull them farther apart or push them together. It's a great tool when you have a bottom restrained in a standing position and it's used between the ankles, then the bottom's legs can't spread out and cause further discomfort, allowing him to keep in the position longer. Some spreading bars have attachment islets at the ends, others come with permanently attached restraints.

Floggers/Whips: Choose a flogger that has tails, also known as the "fall", between 1' and no more than 2' long of soft, medium heavy leather. The grip should be comfortable to your hand and should balance on your forefinger slightly forward of the middle of the handle. Rubber falls are also available and generally cause more of a stinging sensation. Really heavy floggers cause more of a deep thudding sensation. I don't recommend that novices get single tail whips (signal, snake), especially bull whips, because these require lots of practice and skill to use correctly, even to prevent injury to the weilder (backlash). If you want to learn to use single tails find a master of it to train you.

Collars: Collars are more of a fashion accessory, often denoting submission or ownership, although locking ones are useful if you want to attach a leash or chain and attach the other end to... your imagination. Leather and metal ones are available.

Hoods: Some people love these, others have an aversion, even claustrophobia, to having their head fully enclosed, eyes covered, gag strapped in mouth. Hood lovers often feel being taken, able to let go further. There are so many designs that I can't begin to describe them here. Prices vary from moderate to very expensive.

Gag/Head Harness: These do not fully cover the head, but straps hold a gag in the mouth. Others act as a muzzle over the mouth. Some lock on.

Belts: Any leather or cloth belts and straps from your closet, thrift stores or hardware are great for quick bondage.